Tuesday, August 26, 2008

Feeling good



This past weekend was nice and relaxing. Had dinner with friends and saw a good film. At this point in the week I would usually be quite depressed being away from Veronica, but not this week. The powers that be at work let Veronica spend the week in the office, so I am enjoying having my wife around. The simple things, eh?

I am so content right now I feel as if I am bi-polar. Adding to my joy is the surf session yesterday morning. Pardon my French, but that old whore Manly transformed itself from being a crappy beach break to looking like a bonafide World Class wave. Reeling, glassy, 3 to 4 foot pits running along the banks. I bore witness to Kai Otten (a local pro surfer, top 16 in the World) get 2 of the most insane barrels EVER! The second barrel I watched while paddling back out. Staring straight into the barrel I watched as he pumped and weaved through a LARGE pit. As he was speeding along through the tube another section threw over putting him incredibly deep. Understand that the dude was so deep I couldn’t even see him through the raging swirl of water. At that point I figured he was done, busily getting chewed up and rag dolled underwater. However, a half second later he flew out of the womb of that beastly wave at a blistering speed. Instinctively I sat up on my board, raised my arms and yelled something not quite appropriate for this blog. It was nuts, not only was I getting great waves but I had so much adrenaline coursing through me just getting to watch someone get a barrel like that. It was simply INSANE!

The pictures are of V and I making lemonade Sunday night.

1 comment:

Nic said...

when life gives you lemons, make lemonade.

Good to hear you've gotten a little good surf lately, next time make it you in the barrel.